THE OFFICIAL CAR STEREO THREAD

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

I decided to engineer a drop top sealed speaker box in my Smartcar.







What you working with?

[RUTHLESS_1]

I'm looking to get something for my car. I had a honda fit and the radio had Aux connection and read mp3 cd's so I was chillin. My knew family cars radio is shit. CD's only. Haven't been in the game for a while now wanna know whats a decent priced stereo. The bluetooth option sounds cool and the flash drive slot. What would you guys recomend for a budget of like $150?

[nb]

in my Smartcar.

[Nick Tary]

Official.

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

I'm looking to get something for my car. I had a honda fit and the radio had Aux connection and read mp3 cd's so I was chillin. My knew family cars radio is shit. CD's only. Haven't been in the game for a while now wanna know whats a decent priced stereo. The bluetooth option sounds cool and the flash drive slot. What would you guys recomend for a budget of like $150?

Start by getting an amp off of ebay, or craigslist if you trust the person that it works. I was able to get a 300$ one for 120. Use the factory radio outputs but be aware that this will split your ohms in half.

[Shadows]

i got be to honest, thats pretty baller dude. never heard those kickers before but i would assume it destroys a smart car
i dont like sealed boxes though.

back when i was a real person i ran two 13 w7's in my subaru. was osm

[Pulp]

That's cute, OP.

I had a Toyota about 3 years ago that I totalled. The amp and subwoofer were fine, and I'm still using them in my Jeep now.
I have two Polk Audio DB's in the front doors (6") and two in the back ceiling (5.25"). Drilled into the floor of the trunk is a Polk amp and a Polk 12" sub with a ported box. Nothing too crazy or flashy, but it sounds very nice.

I take the flashy back, I have an Alpine touchscreen head unit with GPS.

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

That's cute, OP.

I had a Toyota about 3 years ago that I totalled. The amp and subwoofer were fine, and I'm still using them in my Jeep now.
I have two Polk Audio DB's in the front doors (6") and two in the back ceiling (5.25"). Drilled into the floor of the trunk is a Polk amp and a Polk 12" sub with a ported box. Nothing too crazy or flashy, but it sounds very nice.

I take the flashy back, I have an Alpine touchscreen head unit with GPS.

There is a flat powered speaker behind the passenger seat also. I would like to replace the head unit with something nice in the future, and replace the stock 6.5 door speakers with component ones with tweeters. You must love your GPS touchscreen!

[andreas542]

Used to have this in my boot:



Shit was banging

[oojpatchoo]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...oe04141116.jpg

How is the trunk rattle?

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

It surprisingly doesnt rattle much. I think I need to stop one other thing from shaking that is in my hatch. Most of the time it doesnt rattle but only time will tell if the weather stripping holds out.

[DnEhThEnD]

anyone else run a CB in their car?

[Pulp]

anyone else run a CB in their car?

I have one, haven't hooked it up in a while though.

[CerealGuy]

91 civic




My friend's AE82 corolla custom dash


ae101 corolla



I can't find any finished photos... everything was hidden anyways...





Then I moved to Japan...

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

Did you have to put in a different alternator for any of those setups? I came out really lucky by not having to in my Smart... but I could never run a 1000watt amp. Is that one a thousand watts?

[DnEhThEnD]

the amp for my sub dying, every now and then it will generate a low rumble even with no input. I'm hoping there is just a loose connection inside, maybe something is grounding where it shouldn't be. luckily I put a switch between the remote lead and the amp for quick access

[CerealGuy]

Did you have to put in a different alternator for any of those setups? I came out really lucky by not having to in my Smart... but I could never run a 1000watt amp. Is that one a thousand watts?

No the standard alternator was fine.
You should invest in a good dry cell battery before you consider changing to a crazy alternator.
http://www.odysseybattery.com/
Make sure you have good cables and the ground should be as thick or thicker than the power.

as for the total wattage... there were 3 amps in the civic and 4 in the corolla.

The total calculated wattage was well over 1000watts rms.
The headlights would dim on the bass hits with a normal battery.

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

I have a 300w and a 150w in my car now, my alternator pushes abour 90a and I do not think I have room for a dry cell in my car... I have a capacitor now to help it start up and it has a readout of 14 from the battery, so I think I will be fine. The lights do not dim unless its unbearably loud. Thanks for the idea of a dry cell tho!

[CerealGuy]

I have a 300w and a 150w in my car now, my alternator pushes abour 90a and I do not think I have room for a dry cell in my car... I have a capacitor now to help it start up and it has a readout of 14 from the battery, so I think I will be fine. The lights do not dim unless its unbearably loud. Thanks for the idea of a dry cell tho!

A capacitor does not help the system start up..... It's Job is to take the stress off the battery and alternator during high current draw situations.
The only way to get high current draw at start up is if the music is up loud when you turn the system on.

Dry cells from Odyssey are smaller than regular batteries....

2 amps, no matter how powerful should be fine.
Watch the readout on the cap when the bass hits. The display probably wont even change.

[S_E_N_A_T_E_B_O_Y]

A capacitor does not help the system start up..... It's Job is to take the stress off the battery and alternator during high current draw situations.
The only way to get high current draw at start up is if the music is up loud when you turn the system on.

Dry cells from Odyssey are smaller than regular batteries....

2 amps, no matter how powerful should be fine.
Watch the readout on the cap when the bass hits. The display probably wont even change.

I have not been able to read the cap when I am on the highway at full speed with the air on, yet.

My concern with my setup is that the amps turn on as soon as I turn the key before I start the car, even with the head unit off.

I preciate' your help, but I thought a cap of 1f would hold the charge that the 300w amp needed for the start.

I guess you are saying it will drain my battery first and eventually wear out my alternator? *I cant upgrade the alternator either